Category Archives: Chefs

Sorella, London SW4: Grace Dent's restaurant review

A little corner of the Amalfi coast can now be found down a Clapham backstreet, and it’s proving to be wildly popular

Sorella has shape-shifted since its previous incarnation as The Manor. It has let its hair down. Out with the chicken butter served on pebbles, liquid nitrogen puddings and partridge autopsies. Farewell to chefs blowtorching mackerel tableside as you shield your eyebrows. Owner Robin Gill wooed and wowed the food scene’s most nitpicky with puzzling plates of high drama, but he’s now jacked that in, at this venue at least, and started serving pasta. He’s doing the Amalfi coast down a Clapham backstreet, and on the Saturday I swung by, the change was proving popular. As the restaurant world tightens its belt, with new closures daily, I wonder if Michelin-flirting whimsy will be a chief casualty of the cold front. For it’s a limited audience who will return to places like The Manor time after time, but folk will always want pasta.

Or, more accurately, they’ll always want a flute of rhubarb bellini, then a zinging bowl of fresh linguine with crab and fennel, after perhaps a bowl of breaded, deep-fried sweet nocellara olives and a helping of small, feisty truffle arancini. This is now a neighbourhood joint where families sit and honk with laughter, rather than a room where serious souls bearing Canon EOS 5D Mark III 22.3 MP DSLRs harvest content.

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Source: gad

Scoop of stilton, anyone? Savoury ice-cream takes on the classics

Heston’s bacon-and-egg ice-cream helped make his name. Now, flavours such as stilton, Twiglet and smoked salmon are cropping up at ice-cream parlours. Are they better than they sound?

In 2009, I froze some goat’s cheese. It was only a small log of rosary ash, but it was expensive and I was going on holiday so I wrapped it in clingfilm and put it in the freezer. Obviously, I completely forgot about it. In fact it wasn’t until this week, when I was inexplicably holding a tub of stilton ice-cream, that I remembered I had put it there.

It turns out you can freeze anything. And I do. Butter, garlic, goat’s cheese. Cheese ice-cream makes sense – it’s dairy, after all. It’s also a little bit healthier – in savoury ice-cream, salt is used rather than sugar. Which helps if you are of the opinion that sugar is the antichrist.

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Source: gad

Yes, we love ready meals – but Britain is still a foodie nation | Ian Jack

While top chefs such as Angela Hartnett draw on European cuisine, black pudding and pies have a rich history too

There can surely never have been a time in Britain when food was more various, more savoured, more discussed, more enthused over or condemned, more written about, more watched on television. Never before – even when classical statues made of sugar were the centrepieces of Renaissance feasts, or bad acting was rewarded with rotten cabbages – has it provided so much entertainment as well as sustenance.

Who, seated forlornly before a stale fruit scone in an ABC tearoom in the 50s, could have imagined this transformation?

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Source: gad